Date: Friday 15^th August, 2008

Anchorage: Isle of Scalpay, Sound of Raasay

Position: 57° 16’.600N 005° 59’.500W

Distance Travelled: 63 NM

It was raining this morning – our punishment for having got up early. Must never make such a foolish mistake again. Anchors all tangled up too. More pay-out for early rising. The weather cleared up soon enough, though, and we left the Outer Hebrides heading for Skye, via the Shiants. As well as the islands’ rather nice puffin collection, we also had a brilliant sea eagle encounter, another item for Richard’s list of Very Exciting Things.

As we reached the Skye coastline, Laura went up the mast, and unleashed the sightings, followed by Russell – minkes, basking sharks, porpoises and squadrons of diving gannets.

As we made our way down the Sound of Raasay, the sea flattened to a glassy calm, and the porpoises started popping out across the waters. So did the guillemots. Top auk count of the day – 393. Thanks, Richard. After eleven hours on effort (save 10 minutes when the Science Officer showed what a softie she was and let folk come inside for the rain), we anchored by Scalpay, to enjoy a totally amazing supper of Outer Hebridean mackerel, Moroccan veggies and cous cous, prepared with customary calm professionalism by Hilary, and eaten to the backdrop of a sunset of pink clouds.

A conversation on the ethics of bagging - islands, whales, mountains and the like – followed. When is a bag a bag? When is a bag not a bag? Well, it certainly beat last night’s topic – name a cake for every letter of the alphabet…

Date: Thursday 14^th August, 2008

Anchorage: Loch Mharabhig

Position: 58° 05’.200N 006° 23’.400W

Distance Travelled: 45 NM

Beautiful sunny day which was promising for spotting cetaceans but then the swell picked up to our dismay and Fiona had to come down from the crow’s nest…

Early afternoon - almost losing hope of dolphin encounters – Laura saw a splash in the distance… It was indeed a group of common dolphins and not just a white cap! (yippee!) We were SO excited! There were about 25 including baby dolphins who were bow-riding with us but eventually got bored because their dinner was more important. Several gannets were plunging into the sea to feed as well whilst the dolphins were jumping frantically out of the water to corner the fish. The baby dolphins were adorable; couldn’t seem to swim properly and sometimes flopped over on to their side. Our first dolphin encounter was DEFINITELY worth waiting all these days for!

Richard our keen bird-watcher on board, was beaming with delight after seeing his first ever storm petrel.

Arrived in the picturesque sheltered anchorage in time for a few practice climbs up to the crow’s nest before our dinner. A friendly Hebridean fisherman kindly gave us some mackerel which our first mate is currently gutting out for our breakfast…

Date: Wednesday 13^th August, 2008

Anchorage: Badcall Bay

Position: 58° 19’.300N 005° 08’.800W

Distance Travelled: 43 NM

Sea: plentiful and sunny but big

Tomato soup: very welcome and nourishing; looked great as lipstick (thanks Dave)

Fiona: set fire to a tea bag (earl grey)

Shark: MASSIVE, big white mouth, even bigger show-off

Anchorage: sheltered, bonny, nice pub

Supper: delicious

Moon: big, bright, clear. Went down the same way as it came up

Shooting star: like a firework, but better

Date: Tuesday 12^th August, 2008

Anchorage: Isle Ristol, Summer Isles

Position: 58° 02’.400N 005° 25’.800W

Distance Travelled: 50 NM

Despite a grim forecast we set forth undaunted towards the North and were rewarded for our determination by a beautiful summer morning with glassy seas out of Loch Torridon. All was quiet save the shout of “creel 150m!” and “for the love of God, give me a whale!”, until Russell decided to brave the crow’s nest. We had almost forgotten he was up there when we heard the shout of “Minke 30 degrees!”, then “another minke 30 degrees!”. We had a 30 minute encounter at Hinds Shoal with 3 minkes, a seal and porpoise. As we waved goodbye to them, Russell spotted a basking shark and another minke whale who seemed to be chumming around just by the bow of the boat. The minke blew Jacuzzi bubbles under the basking shark and then surfaced nose first right beside us.

Squally winds and a heavy burst of rain chased Russell from the crow’s nest but, despite deteriorating conditions, Ann spotted another basking shark close to starboard. Then Richard saw the distinctive dorsal fin of the last minke of the day.

Richard’s triumph was yet to come……………

Whilst crew prepared a Mexican extravaganza, skipper Dave took us on a scenic nature tour of several possible anchor sites at the Summer Isles. A true perfectionist, he could not stop until the perfect spot was found, i.e. until the anchor held.

After dinner during a trip to Isle Ristol, Richard showed his true colours – he was beside himself with excitement having found the skull and beak of a curlew. His joy, however, was doubled, nay quadrupled, by the discovery of several more disintegrating skeletons including a puffin and a gull. Oh the joys of being a biology teacher on holiday!

Glowing with sun, whales and chilli con carne, we’re off to bed, to prepare for another day…

Date: Monday 11^th August, 2008

Anchorage: Upper Loch Torridon

Position: 57° 33’.200N 005° 38’.000W

Distance Travelled: 35 NM

Onboard: Hilary, Ann, Fiona, Laura, Richard, Russell (volunteers) , Dave, Susie, Spike, Cormac (crew).

The day began with Susie (Scientific Officer) introducing the work ahead, before Cormac (Science Monkey) rejoined the boat with a new hydrophone just before lunch. This was followed by a valiant effort to cast off from the pier which included manhandling a massive plastic pipe that had been requisitioned as a fender by the ever-resourceful skipper. Panic was avoided as the wind got up and the crew pushed all 33T of Silurian away from the pier with their bare hands and feet (not bare!). Setting north under power beneath the Skye bridge the wind blew steadily from the south-west as we hoisted sail.

Creel spotting was excellent training for estimating distances, useful as Fiona spotted the first porpoises 150m away heading 150 degrees.( practically under the bowsprit!)

Crossing the Torpedo firing range in the Inner Sound, Range Control alarmed the skipper by asking him to spell the name of the vessel, stirring some traumatic memories of forgetting his nautical alphabet.

Russell then spotted a posse of porpoises heading South. During all the excitement several crew members were fooled by the minke wave – just the sea teasing us.

There was an unexpected outbreak of sunshine mid afternoon. However, due to focus on the surveying in hand, nobody reached for the suntan cream, so the faces around the table now are all glowing gently. Cormac spent the day plugged into a USB port and looks rather ghostly by comparison. All are looking forward to seeing the first otters and puffins, and realise we are on the wrong trip. None of the volunteers have dared to climb to the crow’s nest yet, but they have been sizing up the stairway to heaven.