Anchorage: Loch Moidart, Ardnamurchan

Position: 56° 47.2’ N, 05° 49.5’ W

Distance Travelled: 45 nm

By the time of writing this, all the authors had drunk half to a full bottle of wine each…

Today, unfortunately, we didn’t see a great deal (Editors Note: Gemma & Kate saw seals). Overcast skies and choppy seas didn’t make for great sightings conditions but today was filled with tiny successes. Gareth managed to fit 3 rich tea biscuits in his mouth in one go... but couldn’t talk while trying to eat said 3 biscuits. Meanwhile Kat managed to name only 3 of 5 vowels….but ultimately failed to figure out what histrionics is…the study of historic electronics. Cormac’s middle name was revealed as Gemma….no wait, Graham. Also of note, a cracking Highlanders Hotpot was knocked up by Tamara, Steve, Gemma and Christian and enjoyed by all. Tonight we anchor (we hope) in Loch Moidart with just the short journey back to Tobermory tomorrow. Hopefully a few whales to bring us home…

Bizarrely, the trip was summed up by the crew in the following words:

CREEEEEEL!!!! Like, totally! HAALLO! DEET. Naan. Funkytown! CREEEEEL!!

All the Volunteers

Anchorage: Cragaig

Position: 56° 27.6’ N, 06° 13.2’ W

Distance Travelled: 28 nm

After clinging to the crow’s nest for the first part of the day with no sightings, we were happy to be dropped off at Lunga to explore the island and its inhabitants: puffins, razorbills, guillemots, shags and kittiwakes. We all managed to get photos that Bill Oddie would have been proud of, and returned to Silurian eager to get back to surveying.

The first sighting (harbour porpoise) was made by Gareth, then Christian spotted the first of two basking sharks in mirror-like waters. This seemed to raise spirits and could only be topped by the minke whale sighting just a few minutes later. Tonight we have anchored at Cragaig off Ulva, and enjoyed another delicious dinner followed by the chocolate we bought this morning on Iona.

Hoping for another amazing day tomorrow…..

Disclaimer: It should be pointed out that only Gemma was up the crow’s nest. Having two people up there at once would have contravened the ‘Laws of Sea’. It’s just that Christian helped write the blog…

Christian and Gemma

Volunteers

Anchorage: Tinker’s Hole, Erraid

Position: 56° 17.4’ N, 06° 23.3’ W

Distance Surveyed: 49 nm

The Silurian left the Gulf of Corryvreckan at 8 a.m., but not before the windlass broke leaving Steve to bring the anchor in by hand. We all had breaky on the run as we had to leave Corryvreckan before the change of tides. Once out of the Corryvreckan, the Silurian headed for Garvellachs and zigzagged across the waters south of Mull.

Lunch consisted of naan bread with choice of egg, cheese, bacon, or choice of two. Most had ‘neb’ as quoted by Cormac. I had cheese with pickle, which will be a new staple when I return home.

The sun shone all day with extremely windy points, but there was a calm in the early afternoon. Gareth sighted a porpoise just before the calm as the Silurian came close to land on the Ross of Mull. It was the only sighting of the day, but there were 23 detections. Kat had her first opportunity to go up in the crow’s nest for several hours during the afternoon. I think I shall wait until my next sail to attempt the crow’s nest.

We anchored in Tinker’s Hole around 5 p.m. As a team we prepared dinner, a veggie casserole and tuna casserole with a side of pasta and pesto - excellent as usual. Some went ashore and others stayed on the Silurian once the evening chores were finished. After returning from shore, Gareth took a quick dip off the Silurian in Tinker’s Hole.

Most of the crew retired early, as the last few days have been long, but not without the usual bits of laughter and cheer.

Tamara

Volunteer

Anchorage: Bagh Gleann nam Muc, Corryvrechan

Position: 56° 08.9’ N, 05° 44.7’ W

Distance Surveyed: 57 nm

Today by some miracle we were all very keen to get up and get going, despite the drinking of the previous night. I think the amazing weather probably had something to do with it and it turned out to be an awesome day all told. Kate hopped up the crows nest and managed to stay up there until mid afternoon when Gareth took over. We sailed back down Loch Sween and zig –zagged our way up the Sound of Jura, where we actually spotted a minke whale, which was really cool. The hydrophone was pretty much going crazy most of the day with porpoise detections, at least that’s how it felt. I think there were around 60 all told.

We anchored at Bagh Gleamn num Muc, which means the ‘Bay of the Porpoise’ in Gaelic. We certainly saw quite a few on the way down and the conditions were perfect for spotting with an almost glass sea. Unfortunately, we were greeted by a rather rude hiker. However, this was quickly forgotten as we tucked into Cormac’s chilli. We completed the washing up fairly sharpish as we all wanted to explore the island onshore. I managed to loose my camera somewhere on the hill, but very luckily Cormac found it randomly on the way down from the hill so I have found myself eternally indebted. It was an amazing location. Cormac, Gareth and Kate took some very cool ‘holding the sun’ photos and I had a very close encounter with some deer, getting within 30m. Meanwhile, Gemma and Tamara explored some cool caves and collected some bones, which I feel is starting to become expected and am intrigued as to what will be found tomorrow.

Kat

Volunteer

Anchorage: Tayvallich, Loch Sween

Position: 56° 01.4’ N, 05° 37.4’ W

Distance Surveyed: 55 nm

For once the weather forecast was to be trusted and it remained sunny all day as promised. We managed to see one porpoise and a few seals, which was actually pretty good going compared to previous days. There were also 22 porpoise detections on the hydrophone.

We traveled up Loch Sween on a flat calm sea surrounded by stunning scenery. All the locals were also making the most of the bank holiday weekend and we were circled by a few jet-skis and passed numerous people canoes and small vessels. There was the odd shout from someone that thought they’d seen an eagle but unfortunately they all turned out to be herons.

We moored at Tayvallich in a bay with the most amazing view, surrounded by expensive houses, one of which even had a swimming pool! Although remote, it is certainly the nearest to civilization we have been. There is even a jetty to get off the rib. With that in mind certain people made a b-line to the pub. Others decided to go for a walk around first and I have to say it is one of the most picturesque country villages I have been. The pub was definitely a must was we all enjoyed a drink or too. Unfortunately, we made the mistake of sitting outside and getting bitten to death by midges – or at least I did. I think I probably acted as the de-coy for everybody else. Anyway, we have all stayed up drinking and snacking for a bit longer than we should have, especially given the amount of fish pie we managed to consume earlier, so I’m going to bed. Night all,

Kat

Volunteer

Anchorage: Loch Tarbet

Position: 55° 57.7’ N, 06° 18.6’ W

Distance Surveyed: 49 nm

Today involved much more of the same – gazing out hopefully over the sea but not seeing any cetaceans, or any sightings of particular interest apart from one grey seal.

Meals included the usual morning porridge, cereal, toast, etc. followed by bacon ‘n’ egg or cheese ‘n’ pickle naan bread butties. The wind on deck was strong enough to blow my tea into my face as I tried to drink it. The evening meal was a scrumptious feast of delicious Chinese chicken, sweet chilli prawns and quorn nuggets, cooked by Steve. I hope tomorrow will include such great food. I hear fish pie is planned for the evening meal, sounds good.

Gareth (aka Gannet/ Ship’s dog/ dustbin)

Volunteer

P.S. For our nocturnal adventure – to complete the day – we ribbed over the ripples to explore the geological delights of the shore – one of the finest locations according to Skips for raised beachs après the last glacial melt. Aegean melt water hues bathed the shore – presence of silver sand provided the visual allure of exotica against the contrasting rock. We found ourselves offloaded onto a beach of smoothed pebbles, of soft grey indigo hues, we scampered our separate ways – some brought up short as they were greeted by an entourage of midges –anticipating a feast, a fast turnabout was made by those sweet tasting individuals, while those who decided to brave the green – rampaged at speed through the green to make for the crags to enjoy the vantage point views. We aspied Skips & Cormac trawling the loch for the sunken creel – which unfortunately on hitting the surface – descended out of sight due to a knotty morass of rope – that negated all hope of retrieving the creel. We were collected by skips as the light departed to the east & the dusk loped in from the west.

A fine eve of mirth & navigational optimism followed – swathed in the liquidescent delights of beer & hot chocs. So we look forward to the adventures of the morrow.

Kate

Volunteer

Anchorage: Bowmore, Loch Indaal

Position: 55° 45.7’ N, 06° 18.9’ W

Distance Surveyed: 51 nm

It was a struggle for everyone to get up this morning but eventually we all dragged ourselves out of bed. Gemma made some lovely porridge for us while the crew set about fixing the head. Unfortunately, in the process a box of gloves was dropped into the bilge, which then had to be fished out. So with the engine problems with the rib yesterday and the fact that the milk exploded in the freezer we decided that we were not due any more bad luck.

We left Loch Tarbet in a gentle breeze and were warned by the skipper to put on more layers. At first the sea turned out not to be too choppy and we enjoyed some fairly nice weather. However, as the day went on so the sea state and swell seemed to increase. This meant spotting anything was pretty difficult so the nearest we got to spotting cetaceans was a couple of grey seals. However, we did have the pleasure lots of birds including our first bait ball.

We arrived at Loch Indaal much to the relief of the people on deck, mooring just off Bowmore. The original intention was to head for the pub, however, we were thwarted by the weather so had to make do with tea and coffee.

So we are off to bed now, good night!

Kat and Christian

Volunteers

Anchorage: Loch Tarbet

Position: 56° 24.2’ N, 05° 44.1’ W

Distance Surveyed: 49 nm

We departed Loch Spelve – playing dodgems with the mussel boomers – much to skips consternation. Silurian shimmied her tail feathers and petticoats were attended to and swished out the entrance into the Firth of Lorn.

A very gentle sail was enjoyed by all – easy airs caressing the senses. Watches and data logs rolling along nicely.

We became rather more exhuberant as Silurian rode the waves as we approached the waters between Colonsay and Jura – visual observations were zesty – albeit zilch on sightings – bar the odd seabird, ferry or fishing boat.

In the late afternoon we headed for Loch Tarbert, on the west coast of Jura - a cosy, tranquil anchorage – of fine repute. We anchored up in the ambient sunshine, repasting on the fine fare of chocolate brownies c/o Gemma. The crew were organised into shore-bound and dinghy explorers, while Steve and Cormac took time out from the mob – to enjoy a quiet moment of Silurian delight and most essentially to organise the nosh – which had caused much consternation in the Cormac fold. Note: Don’t hassle Cormac over the options of spud preparation – mashed is the way to go!!

The four chicks and Papa headed up the Loch – which was quite magical – eider ducks, one seal and a quiet moment as we absorbed the scenery in beau sunshine. We returned under the spluttery engine – Papa nursed it along with a dash of Girl Power on the oars.

The shore team were collected, a barn owl encountered upon the shore rocks. A fine nosh of mash, sausages and broccoli and much merriment ensued with tales of bouncy male castles and the joys of trapeze!

Some seabird ID for tomorrow as we up our data gathering quota – early kips for the pups and the crew.

Oh and porpoise acoustic detections – some 28 detections, so plenty of activity in the area.

Kate

Volunteer

Anchorage: Loch Spelve

Position: 56° 24.2’ N, 05° 44.1’ W

Distance Surveyed: 28 nm

We left Tobermory this lunchtime and headed southeast down the Sound of Mull. We were greeted by calm seas and sunshine. The flat calm conditions made for good sightings as we sailed down the Sound under the light breeze. We saw 5 porpoises and a couple of seals and were also treating, courtesy of Gemma and others who spotted a sea eagle perched on a tree stump on the south side of the Sound! Well, the initial sighting was at least that it was a big bird. Thanks to first mate Steve and the Silurian camera’s long lense, we were able to identify the species a little later on. Either way it was a nice sighting!

We headed on down the Sound, past Lismore lighthouse and into the Firth of Lorn, with a few more porpoises sighted before we turned into Loch Spelve to anchor for the night. After navigating our way through the rows and rows of mussel farm beds, we found a safe spot to drop anchor and greatly enjoyed the still night punctuated by Steve’s awesome curry, rice and naan breads. Tasty stuff.

Cormac

Science Officer