Isle of Skye - Dunvegan to Portree
The first sight that met my eyes as I made my way out onto the deck was a massive white-tailed sea eagle low off the stern of Silurian. A brief scan revealed another. A pair had come down off the cliffs at Waternish Point, perhaps to investigate the same mass of birds that was the focus of our attention. There were dozens of kittiwakes, shearwaters, terns, razorbills, fulmars and guillemots along with some brightly colored puffins, magnificent plunge-diving gannets and the occasional harrying skua. All were intently feeding in one of the ephemeral localised foraging 'hotspots' that also lead to concentrations of whales and porpoises.The hydrophone was alive with the sounds of porpoises, though we only caught glimpses of them in the choppy seas. A neuston tow through the middle of the flock produced large numbers of bright green amphipods, large lobster and crab larvae and small fish of several types. This winter Kim will analyse the sample to see if it also contains plastic debris that animals may accidentally eat.

Through a steady cold rain shower off the north end of Skye a group of six porpoises were sighted that were so active they were initially thought to be dolphins. They were circling, splashing, and generally acting in a very un-porpoiselike manner suggesting that they may have found a good food supply. As the rain began to ease, a huge and intensely bright double rainbow formed to the west, while under the massive basaltic cliffs of the Aird at least two minke whales were seen. One of the minkes passed close down our starboard side, providing an excellent opportunity for all to get nice views of it and for me to get some identification photographs from an area that we have not sampled much in the past.

By 8:00 with the wind low, the seas nearly flat and Kate's kedgeree hot on the table, the anchorage at Staffin Island tempted us in. Unfortunately, the forecast was for strong northerly winds to arise overnight, an uncomfortable prospect in that situation, so we pressed on to Portree. As it turned out the two hour steam to Portree was magical and despite the brisk evening air it was nearly impossible to stay below. The sea was like glass. Porpoises were in sight nearly the entire passage and large plankton and small fish lept from the water ahead of the bow. Twilight over the craggy northwest coast of Skye lured many cameras out onto deck. After a warming round of hot chocolate in Portree, we collapsed into our bunks for a well deserved sleep.
Dr Peter Stevick
HWDT Scientific Director