Our quest to see the (unusually not so) elusive Hebridean cetaceans, is taking us to some of the unique islands of the Inner Hebrides. One morning we wake up to the sound of myriad of birds from a RSBP reserve, another, like today, the Silurian affords us views of an enormous circular harbour with a castle looking out on it. We anchored alongside a little ship sporting a pirate flag, and an impressively gorgeous 65ft gaff cutter, shame we did not see it with the sails fully hoisted, but skipper drew us a picture of how glorious it would look. Before setting our course for Coll, we went ashore for a tour of Kinloch Castle. Part museum and part hostel, it is a curious piece of history. In typical Empire fashion, it houses a collection of furniture and artefacts from faraway places, with a strong predilection for all things Japanese, and the usual array of trophy stuffed animals that any respectable Victorian castle owner would exhibit on all available space on the already busy walls. It also boasts one of two extant orchestrion of three that were ever made. Some of us would like to come back and stay as Rum is also a nature reserve, perfect to spend a few days walking admiring the landscape and meeting the wildlife. Inspired by our beautiful neighbour for the night, the gaff cutter, we spread our wings to take us gently gliding out of Loch Scresort into the open sea. Here, as the swell become bolder, the gliding turned to surfing under an increasingly terse azure sky, adorned on the lower horizon by a crown of loosely woven clouds. Our soundtrack was the hissing of the wind, which for a while sounded like a busy rookery during breeding season.
As we took turns surveying the sea, the waves made a perfect Hokusai picture and as we entered Gunna Sound, the Tiree resident bottlenose dolphin gracefully raced us for half an hour to our sheer delight (see photo). This was a life-saver since I was unable to deliver my morning promise to the science-persony-thingy to spot a Minke for her. The hydrophones today recorded a high number of porpoises in the area we surveyed, making this a very successful working day. They also picked up a vociferous shrimp party [which make a very loud ‘popcorn’ type sound] but alas I missed it as I was on effort when we passed them by. The last hour or so was an exhilarating sailing experience, as we advanced into the strong wind heeled over as far as we could go without toppling over.
The place we will call home for the night is Loch Eartharna, by the village of Arinagour, Island of Coll. Our on board 5-star restaurant is cooking up the usual storm and apparently we are in for a good night of Scottish pubbing later on, perfect ending for a day that started at the Sound of Shoeglenifty. The Silurians bid you good night and will be with you tomorrow to share with you another day in the remote wilderness of the Hebridean waters.
Carla, Earthwatch volunteer

bottlenose dolphin in Tiree Passage

herring gull photographed by Marcus